by-Chad Baart
Bow tuning starts long before adjusting your rest or shooting through paper. Without a properly set up bow, you may find yourself spending countless hours at the range doing nothing but adjusting your equipment.
Step by Step
- Obtain proper measurements from the tune charts
- Check for proper cam lean and adjust if needed- (you wont be able to on a floating yoke unless you serve the yoke in place)
-Back the string off 10 or so twists- take the string out of the equation- its there just for the ride!
- Set the ATA with the buss cable (one with the Y) to 1/16th over tune chart specs
- Set the control cable as needed to syncronize the cams- watch the ATA as you go- I like my top cam to slightly over rotate- this gives me a rock solid wall and also helps in a weak shot.
-Twist the string until you get the ATA back to the exact specs.
Your cam timing AND synchronization should now be set to optimum performance.
- Set all your gear up as you want it- install every item that you will be using.
- Next, you will want to set the arrow so it bisects the burger hole and is exactly 90 degrees to the string.
- Set the arrow so that it is ¾ inch from the inside of the riser to the center of the arrow.
NOTE: while setting the string loop- do not use nocking points, you may need to adjust after tiller tuning.
- Now pull your bow back and check to see if you are needing to move up into the target or find yourself needing to pull down on the target. Your bow hand is below the center of the riser and can be acting as a fulcrum not only while trying to hold, but is also working as a fulcrum throughout your shot execution. Manuals say to set even tiller, but this is only a starting point.
-After setting the tiller on your bow, you will again need to check your nocking point to make sure that it is set as before. If not, readjust your loop and/ or rest to maintain the 90 degree angle that bisects the burger hole. Now put 2 tie on nocks above and below the loop to lock it in.
- Next -strip 2 arrows of their fletches and shoot the 2 unfletched with the fletched. You should adjust your rest so that the fletched hit with the unfletched. This tells you that your arrow is flying true without any correction.
- I have found on a properly set up bow, that you will move the rest in the direction of the unfletched arrows. If a step is left out, you may experience that you have to move it in strange directions to compensate for odd forces. Improper form can also make bareshaft tuning a tough venue. I have found that I usually don’t have to adjust much at all by this point.
I have checked the accuracy of this tuning method after completing. It was checked against paper tuning, french tuning, walk back tuning, and also broadhead tuning. In every case, the tune checked out to be right on and my broadheads hit with my field points.
Tips
- Control hand torque- cut a pencil or a dowel and hold it by the ends with your fingers on your bow hand while shooting. This will train you to not grip the handle
-Leave yourself some room -I like to shoot my poundage mid range of bow specs- this allows me a wider range of adjustments when tuning,
-Choosing arrows-Arrows should be ran on a software program for the optimum dynamic spine and proper FOC- I like around 12% for perfect broadhead flight and like to be in the 265-275 range for unparalleled broadhead performance and reduction of wind planing for fixed blades. Improperly spined arrows will yield poor tuning results.
-Short range practice- My shooting went to the next level by blind bailing with a back tension release. Though I do not hunt or shoot 3-d with a back tension, I do use it for training, A back tension release will tell you very quickly if your draw length is set properly.
We hope these instructions will help you on your next do it yourself hunt.
